R. Bingham
Of the last 21 chickens I performed an autopsy on, 16 had worms. This is not to insinuate that these chickens did not have other complications, but we all understand that if a chicken is full of worms, they are robbing him of all the nourishment he requires to grow and to ward-off diseases.
Last week, a fellow brought a 14-month old stag over that was walking stilt-legged and appeared to be coming down with paralysis. Upon opening this stag up and inspecting the intestinal tract, we found he was loaded with round worms. He was so infested with these worms that some had penetrated through the intestinal wall and into the air sacs and internal organs. So what appeared at first to be paralysis was actually a condition caused by worms.
A few years back, I was having a problem with my young fowl. Some of them were growing poorly, feathering poorly and lacked the vitality a young chicks should have. Now, I feed a good high-protein diet and put gamefowl vitamins in their water, but they still lacked the health and vitality they should have had. So to shorten this story, I cut some open and they were infested with tapeworms. Now I deworm my gamefowl religiously every 30 days, especially the young ones running out, yet they still had tapeworms. So I started doing some research to find out why.
I found out that the only product on the market for control of tapeworms is a compound called "Butynorate", and this compound will get rid of tapeworms. This then leaves us only one alternative and that is to put a powder or franule in the chick's mash. This is also true of Phenothiazine which is recommended treatment for cecal worms. Piperazine for the removal of round worms and Thiabenzadole for the removal of gape worms can be administered through the water.
Wormal Tablets contain Butynorate, Phenothiazine and Piperazine. These tablets are exclusively distributed by Gamefowl Supplies in the US at wholesale price.
What is more important than worming is to worm properly. The chicken must be empty of feed before the medication is effective. So fast your fowl for the minimum of 12 hours before worming them. It is important to know that wormers kill only the mature worms and not the eggs, so it is imperative that you repeat the above procedure 8 to 10 days later to take care of the eggs that have hatched.
Chickens get worms from eating bugs and from droppings which have worm ova in them. So you can see that it is impossible to prevent your fowl from getting worms. Make it a routine to schedule deworming every 30 days.
